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Do you haggle using a baseball bat?
(not used either service although I may try Costco next time)
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I usually go with tire iron, well because it’s there in the car already
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Truecar. Look at the price spread. Shoot for your target.
Just don't sign up with your phone number or you'll get calls and emails for a year.
I've gotten two cars at the lowest sales price in California for that model.
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Cool. I will look at. Thanks.
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They�re all scams
True car, aaa,Costco, caravans, carmax
Negotiate yourself and don�t be afraid to walk
Don�t waste time with salesmen, go straight to the gsm
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Thanks phuckerface
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Uh... sorry about that
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They all will give you good discounts,. You should check with the manufacturer's websites to see if they have any discount programs going on, to add to the 3rd party discount. .Also, different cities (and counties) have higher local taxes than others, which may add to your total cost.
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I used the Costco program. I paid $2200.00 below sticker price without haggling. I also got a $1500.00 manufacturer discount which helped with the sales tax. I don't know if I could have done better on my own without Costco's help, but I was satisfied with the whole process. Hope this helps.
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I was going to buy a car at Costco but I got a pizza instead. Not mad at my decision.
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That service, which showed me the real dealer cost, is www.truecar.com
I got a car, for $3000 below sticker price.
Sure, it was a compact car, not super loaded.
Add in tax and license, still $1000 below sticker.
2nd car bought using www.truecar.com
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Good info. Thanks.
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a;ways ask for the employee discount, and start there
typically 50% below retail. i was a salesman at a gm dealership once, and just amazed how much the real markups and dealer incentives can get
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Good call.
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I agree with burnsie1169. That is what I did on the last two 300zx cars I bought. Saved 2K on the first and 10K on the second. The last car I bought was via carmax. It had 4000 miles and still smelled brand new.
I pick the car I want and do some research on the average amount paid. Then I shoot for much less.
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i would typically spend a few hrs looking at the lease deals figuring out the discount they were offering on the basic car..change and add my options to get a ball park in the lease menu...make sure you talk to at least two dealers.
when you do a build on the websites they don't factor in the discount so you need to figure what it is first whether it's lease or buy....but can figure it from their leases pretty easy
just for ball park purposes so you don't get hosed
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Truecar... got a Jeep for around 13% off msrp. Literally just showed up at the dealer with the printout generated on the site, did the paperwork and drove off. Probably the same at costco, etc.
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Thanks to all.... I think this will be a full court press..... 1 dealer, talk to the internet sales guy. 2nd dealer, use costco/truecar. 3rd dealer, just walk in and low ball them.
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For a few thousand FX, I'll come with you dressed in a trench coat. Introduce me as your Sicilian friend Rocco whose not having a very good day.
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Trench coat = flasher
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Years ago, I used AAA and it was basically dealer’s invoice plus tax. No haggling needed. However, if you do your research and are good at haggling and negotiating, then that is your route.
Last new vehicle, I used CarProUSA’s buying program. It was much better and easier than AAA. Does not cost anything to use if one does not have Costco or AAA membership.
Good luck
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Check out FightingChance.com, they are a great service that will provide all the dealer invoice pricing for what you’re looking for. They also also have a lot of free advice on how to get the best deals.
How good of a deal you get depends on how flexible you are too. If you have a very specific make, model, trim, and color you are going to have less negotiating power then if you are flexible on some areas.
As for the original question about Costco, and other discount programs. I know someone that looked at Costco and the buyer program from thier Credit Union after trying on thier own, and they did a better job then either one.
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+1 truecar.
Helped a friend make a purchase of a popular model. Price quoted was much lower than market rate according to edmunds.
Made an appointment online, brought the print out from truecar, and we were done well less than 1 hour (no financing).
You might be able to save a few dollars if you want to haggle, but who needs the brain damage.
This was a few years ago so maybe there are better sites now.
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Any of youse want to hook me up with helpful Honda friends and family discount?
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No one mentioned 'dealer holdback' - the dealer deserves to make a profit - but just because you THINK you paid XX above "invoice" does not make it so. Dealers have tons of ways to "cook the books".
My best advice is negotiate the price paid (out the door) - DO NOT negotiate monthly payments.
Just my two cents.
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CarMax
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Used Costco to purchase 2 base model Yaris Toyotas for my company. $100 over sticker. Period, No haggling, in and out in 45 minutes....worked for me.
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^^^Yaris? You work for Fubs, Inc.?
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isn't that like a limousine to a scrawny bird
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I always LOL when a car salesman tries to give me the "invoice price" or "employee discount." I tell them to go x% lower especially if when I'm buying a mass market car.
The dealership that actually paid "invoice price" for a car is the next one to close down.
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Extra services when buying a car spell RIP-OFF.
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If haggling is the issue, Enterprise Used Car sales has a no haggling policy. What's on the sticker price is what you get.
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| There are 32 comments on this blog. |
